To me it is a little bit visceral to see a woman's shape with the head and face entirely covered. It is a trope common in fashion because it is so total, so complete, so literally head-to-toe. It is a political statement, too. (Remember this Fever Ray appearance?) And we've seen it all over, from McQueen himself to this high-movement fringe bodysuit designed by my friend Viktor. The face is a locus of all the senses, and to cover the senses isolates the wearer, seals her off. It made me feel so uncomfortable to see the faces and heads of all the mannequins covered in leather, metal, horsehair.
So by the time I emerged from this sensory overload, I had that funny feeling. I know that McQueen was very feminist, into women and women's power; he was obsessed with the feminine shape and embellished it to frightening and powerful extremes (huge hips and huge shoulders with terrifyingly clean lines). I also know that the focus of a fashion exhibition is the clothes, not the bodies that inhabit the clothes. But in this video you can see some of the mannequins with their faces; this repeated image juxtaposed with the ethereally draped, windswept Kate Moss hologram has a weirdly emotional effect on me.